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Fix the awful Sonos app icon on MacOS

I like Sonos. I do. I do hate the default Sonos app icon for the Sonos desktop app though. Here is how to change it to the same app icon that is used in iOS.

Sonos app icon fixFirst download this file and unzip it. Inside you’ll find two files which I conveniently prepared for you.

Now open the file “Sonos icon” inside with Preview and press CMD-A and then CMD-C to copy it to the clipboard. Open the Applications folder again, select the Sonos app by clicking it once and press CMD-I to show the info window. Now select the small icon in the top-left by clicking it once, and press CMD-V to change the Sonos app icon.

You’re not done yet. When browsing your apps you’ll see the new Sonos icon, but when opening it will change into the old one. To fix this, go to your applications folder in Finder, right-click the Sonos icon and choose “Show package contents” (“Toon Pakketinhoud” in Dutch).  Navigate to Contents -> Resources and replace the “SonosMDCR.icns” file in there with the one you downloaded.

Now (re)start the Sonos app, and enjoy a normal looking Sonos app icon 🙂



Install WD Blue M.2 SSD into MacBook Air mid 2012

img_0029The MacBook Air mid 2012 is still a very capable notebook for everyday use. When my wife ordered one in 2012, we thought that a 120GB SSD would suffice, but times have changed and so has the size of IE. digital photo’s. Time to upgrade the SSD!

I got my hands on a brand new WD Blue M.2 SSD 250GB, so I decided to use that one. Now you can’t fit a M.2 SSD in a mid 2012 MacBook Air, but there is a company called Sintech that is creating all kinds of SSD adapters. I ordered a MBA 2012 to M.2 SSD adapter from Amazon and a week or so later it fell on my doormat.

img_0031Installing the Western Digital Blue M.2 SSD on te adapter was a bit of a fiddle with what screw to use, but I got it mounted just fine. Luckily iFixit has a full tutorial on how to swap the SSD (not that it is hard), so I followed their procedure and installed the SSD in the MacBook Air.

Obviously I  had to reinstall MacOs, but that was easy because created a MacOS installer USB Drive before I started and had a good Time Machine backup at hand which I made on a fast G-Drive EV.

After installing and restoring 155GB of free space again 😀

Free space! At last!

Free space! At last!

The MacBook Air 2012 isn’t capable to make full use of the speed of the WD M.2 SSD (it should reach speeds of up to 545MB/sec), but it gave me a much better write speed. Reading was a little bit slower than on the original SSD but personally I think that’s fine.

RetroPie Handheld Game Console [Part 1]

Using a Raspberry Pi and some custom components, many people have created their version of a Retropie handheld game emulator that can play many retro games of the NES, SNES, Gameboy, Dreamcast and many more. Recently I built the Pigrrl 2.0 using the excellent kit and tutorial on This was a nice project, but it came out quite expensive, since I am located in Europe, and the parts must come from the US. Next to the parts, I had to pay € 35 for shipping, and another € 35 in VAT and duty at delivery. The total cost of this unit came at about € 180 because of that.

Looking around, I also found the great projects on This is a website dedicated on modding the original gameboy into a RetroPie handheld. Looks really awesome, but again, the parts need to come from the US from many different stores, and some of the parts are custom made for this purpose and very expensive.

Controls for Retropie HandheldSo, I decided to do my own project and build my own Retropie Handheld, including custom enclosure. I tried to get all parts from, since they ship to The Netherlands for free or almost free, and they are extremely cheap.

In search of the parts, I found that a USB SNES controller is sold at 3-4 euro’s at Banggood. After removing the enclosure of it, I will have a PCB, buttons with the right feel, AND only 4 wires to connect to the Pi, since USB is only 4 wires.

schermafbeelding-2016-09-29-om-10-56-29I also wanted a bigger display that the 2.4″ of my previous project. I am still in doubt between a 5″ display and a 3.5″ display. I have the 5″ laying around already, and ordered a 14 euro 3,5″ display as well. When I have all the parts I can decide which display to use.

For power, you’ll need a battery and an internal charger / step up combo like Adafruits Powerboost 1000C. A simple charger wouldn’t be good enough, since you also need something to protect the battery from over-discharging. schermafbeelding-2016-09-29-om-11-02-13I found a very nice, although slightly big battery/charger combo that I am going to use for that. It even has an on-off switch, so I’ll see if I can use that as well. If not, I might need an extra switch.

Sound. I want to hear sound. This is what made me decide not to build the beautiful PiGrrl Zero since it is lacking a speaker. For this purpose we need a small amplifier board and some tiny speakers. I want two speakers since I am going for stereo. I couldn’t find the right speakers at Banggood, so I ordered these from I think I will glue them in place, so if you want to order a slightly different model, it shouldn’t be a problem.

schermafbeelding-2016-09-29-om-11-00-02You’ll obviously need a Raspberry Pi. I decided to go with the Raspberry Pi 3. The Pi Zero might also be an option, but I like the on-board wifi and extra CPU power of the Pi 3.

I also ordered some AWG 28 wire. I picked 4 different colors, but obviously the color doesn’t influence the success of the build. It only makes building slightly easier.

When I have all the parts, I will design my own custom enclosure in Fusion 360, and 3D Print it on my Ultimaker 2+. When finished the files will be published on Thingiverse, including the source files so you can easily change details and make a remixed model.


Total cost so far is around € 80 including VAT and shipping.

Now I have to wait for all goods to be delivered before I can continue. Follow me on Twitter to get notified of the next part.

Download all files from Blackvue dashcam to your Synology over Wifi

To archive all files from your Blackvue cloud-enabled dashcam to your Synology NAS without removing your SD card, simply do the following:

1. Connect your Blackvue dashcam to your local network using its cloud feature.
2. Find the IP of your Blackvue dashcam by checking the dhcp settings from your router, or by using an app like Fing for iPhone (look for network adapter with brand Pittasoft). It might be handy to use a dhcp reservation in your router to make sure the camera always has the same IP.
3. Open a good text editor like Notepad++ (Windows) or TextWrangler (Mac) and paste the code below in a new file.

cd "$(dirname "$0")"
for file in `curl | sed 's/^n://' | sed 's/F.mp4//' | sed 's/R.mp4//' | sed 's/,s:1000000//' | sed $'s/\r//'`; do wget -c$file\F.mp4; wget -c$file\R.mp4; wget -nc$file\F.thm; wget -nc$file\R.thm; wget -nc$file.gps; wget -nc$file.3gf; done

*Please note that the line “for file in” goes all the way to “done”. This needs to be one line!

Update: You can also download the script above here, but you will still need to edit the IP address using a decent texteditor like the ones mentioned above. No Word, Wordpad or any rich text editor.

4. Change the IP in the script to your Blackvue Dashcam IP.

5. Save this file to a (new)share on your Synology and call it

6. Go to Synology DSM, Configuration, Task scheduler

7. Choose “User defined script” and enter
sh /volume1/name_of_your_blackvue_archive_share/
and set the schedule to run every day at a time your Blackvue will be connected to your local network for a while.

The procedure above will let your NAS download all files on the Blackvue dashcam, it will skip files already downloaded, and it will resume partially downloaded .mp4 files.

If you want the Synology NAS to only download the files of that day, use this version of the script in stead:

cd "$(dirname "$0")"
export BVDATE=`date +%Y%m%d`
echo $BVDATE
for file in `curl | sed 's/^n://' | sed 's/F.mp4//' | sed 's/R.mp4//' | sed 's/,s:1000000//' | sed $'s/\r//' | grep $BVDATE`; do wget -c$file\F.mp4; wget -c$file\R.mp4; wget -nc$file\F.thm; wget -nc$file\R.thm; wget -nc$file.gps; wget -nc$file.3gf; done

*Please note that the line “for file in” goes all the way to “done”. This needs to be one line! This version is also included in the download above.

This script also skips all files that are already downloaded, so you can start it multiple times the same day without redownloading all files.

Note: The upload speed of the camera is very slow. In my case, I need one minute to download a one minute file. I take no responsibility for anything. Use at your own risk.

Full credits for the original script to Gadgetblogist

We are not alone

Hembrug, Zaanstad

Foto expeditie Hembrug Zaanstad. Oude artillerie / machine fabriek.

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Inimini H 4″ 180mm race quadcopter

Hoeveel fun kun je hebben? Een 180mm Inimini H frame van dquad met 4 Tiger 2300kv 1806 motoren en 20A Littlebee ESC’s. Absoluut een aanrader!

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Elegant iPhone 6 Plus dock for 3D Printing

Because I couldn’t really find a design I liked on Thingiverse, i decided to design my own. I designed it with Colorfabb Woodfill – a wood like material – in mind, because since I finally got it to print, it’s by far my favorite material to print with. Surfaces get really smooth, and if you print at 0.15mm layers, sloped surfaces also look very nice. The roughness of the material is very forgiving, and at the same time it makes the design look really finished and professionally produced. Of course you can print it in any material, but I think it looks best in Colorfabb Woodfill.

The iPhone 6 Plus dock has space for the original charging cable and has channels for the microphone and speaker at the bottom of the phone.

Supports are not needed to print this design. The channels are optimized for this, and your printer shouldn’t have a problem with bridging the small gap behind the connector.

If you want to print it you can download the design on Thingiverse.

If you want me to print it for you, you can order it through my hub on 3DHubs: download the design through thingiverse and upload it on 3DHubs.

Printing with Colorfabb Woodfill on an Ultimaker 2


3DHubs Marvin printed at 200% scale with 0.15mm layer height.

When I ordered my Ultimaker 2, I was very excited about all the special filaments out there. Woodfill was my favorite. There was only one issue: It didn’t print. It got stuck in the nozzle every single time. I used the profile found on the colorfabb website, tweaked every single aspect of it but it simply wouldn’t print.

Finally with some help of the 3DHubs community and a print-buddy I managed to create my recipe for successfully printing Colorfabb Woodfill.


Torso printed at 0.2mm layer height.

Now for a special filament like Woodfill you have to change some settings on the Ultimaker 2. First of all the material settings, which you can set and save. Secondly you need to change the retraction settings. Sadly, you can only change these as part of the ‘Tune’ function during printing. This means that you have to change these every single time.

I found a solution to that. If you change the ‘Gcode flavor’ setting of your printer in Cura to Reprap (Marlin/Sprinter) you suddenly get the option to set printer temperatures and retraction settings in Cura. Now I personally don’t want to always use this, so I added a second machine to Cura with this setting.

To do this, go to ‘Machine’ –> ‘Add new machine’ and add a second Ultimaker 2. You can change the name to something like ‘Ultimaker 2 Reprap’ or whatever you like to distinct it from the default Ulitmaker you already had.

Schermafbeelding 2015-02-27 om 19.42.03Schermafbeelding 2015-02-27 om 19.42.31After this, switch to expert settings, and you’ll see that you have many more settings available.


Now download and unzip this file for my two Woodfill printer profiles.

Now go to ‘File’ –> ‘Open Profile’ and open the file for 20um or 15um. You’ll see that the settings change. Here are the settings for 20um (0.20mm):

Schermafbeelding 2015-02-27 om 19.43.44Schermafbeelding 2015-02-27 om 19.43.49Schermafbeelding 2015-02-27 om 19.43.56I’ve also added two lines to the starting gcode. One to bring the nozzle to front, and one to extrude 30mm of material before starting to print. This is essential, since without this your first layer will fail the first time you try.

Now open your stl in Cura and simply save the gcode. Don’t forget to enable supports when necessary. When starting the print you will get a warning that this print will override your printer settings. That is ok.

I’ve printed 3 objects without failure with these settings, and the fourth is printing as we speak.

Printing Colorfabb woodfill on Ultimaker 2

**Disclaimer: Use this information / profiles at your own risk**

Nederlands FPV Racing forum opgericht

FPV Racen is best hoogdrempelig. Het kost best serieus geld, en welke componenten heb je nou precies nodig om te kunnen starten met FPV Racing? Hoe stel je alles in? Hier wil je je geen buil aan vallen. Een forum over FPV racing is dan ook een goede plek om ervaringen hierover te delen en vragen te stellen aan andere vliegers.

Vandaar dat ik ben gestart. Ook geïnteresseerd in FPV racen? Registreer je dan snel! Hopelijk kunnen we dit forum laten uitgroeien tot een actieve community.